PROMOTION FOR HAPPY HOUR!!!!

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3.         Buy 1 = rm250

   

    Buy 2 = rm450

    

                   

      
      Buy 3 = rm700

Fruit Smoothie & Veggie Relish Recipes for Sugar Glider

Let's talk about fruits and vegetable for a minute. When choosing these foods for my gliders I consider a few things. One is the safety of the food. Another is their diet requirements. Lastly, I consider their personal preference.

Safe Fruits and Vegetables

Here are a few smoothie and relish recipes for you that go hand in hand with the HPW diet (please see links for full instructions):

SSG Fruit Smoothie

SSG Fruit Smoothie

SSG Fruit Smoothie

2 cups frozen mixed raspberries, blueberries, strawberries & blackberries

1 cup cantaloupe

1 cup orange

1 cup red apple

3 cups papaya

SSG Veggie Relish Recipe 1

SSG Veggie Relish Recipe 1

SSG Veggie Relish Recipe 1

1 cup cucumber

1 cup fresh or frozen peas

1 cup sweet potato

4 cups bok choy

SSG Veggie Relish Recipe 2

SSG Veggie Relish Recipe 2

1 cup frozen vegetable mix of peas, green beans, carrots, & corn

1 cup jicama

1 cup sweet potato

4 cups turnip greens

Unsweetened apple juice (if needed)

There are a few other older fruit and veggie recipes. We used to use these in the past.

Relish/ Smoothie

VEGGIE RELISH 

1 32 oz bag mixed veggies, defrosted (birds eye classic is best, no salt, lima beans are debatable) 

4 oz white grape juice or Gerber fruit juice w/ yogurt.

4 tablespoons honey

FRUIT SMOOTHIE 

5- 6 lbs mixed fruit

4 oz juice

2 - 4 tbsp honey

1/2 cup Dannon French Vanilla Yogurt

*We poured the relish and smoothie into ice trays (double batch takes four trays total) and then froze it. Once frozen, we removed from the trays and stored in air tight containers. This made serving them much easier. One ice cube is two servings (which is perfect for a cage with two gliders in it).

Sugar Glider`s Diet

            We currently have my sugar gliders on the high protein wombaroo diet. Our gliders are happy, healthy, and have beautiful coats. We are also thinking that this diet helps keep the odours down as well. A healthy glider just won't smell as strongly as one on a poor diet.

2 cups warm water

1-1/2 cup honey

3 scrambled eggs

1/4c -1/2c High Protein Wombaroo Powder

1 tablespoon bee poolen

Cook Eggs set aside. In large bowl mix water and honey. Stir until honey is dissolved.
Add in HPW powder, mix well.
In blender add in eggs, bee pollen and 1/2 to 1 cup HPW liquid. Blend for two minutes.
Add in additional liquid and blend for another two minutes.
Pour into a freezer safe bowl with an airtight lid. Keep in freezer. Will freeze to consistency of ice cream. HPW melts fast. This is normal and nothing to worry about.
Feeding instructions:
1-1/2 teaspoons of HPW per glider (1 TABLEspoon for a pair)
1 TABLEspoon of mixed fruits
1 TABLEspoon of mixed veggies
mealies for treats

You can also offer your gliders gliderade twice a week with the rest of their meal.
(If you have a breeding pair or nursing female, some suggest you increase the amount of HPW powder to 1/2cup for the mix instead of 1/4 cup. However, I have chosen to simply add an additional 1-1/2 tsp of the HPW during dinnertime as well as some extra fruits and veggies.)

Socialization & Bonding of Sugar Glider

Some tips:

·         Leave them alone in their cage for a few days and let them adjust.

Gliders really rely on their sense of smell and when everything changes, it can be unsettling to them. They need time to soak it all in. 

·         Wear an old t-shirt to bed for a few nights.

Then, place the shirt over the cage so that the new glider can adjust more quickly to your scent. I have found that this tactic really helps with rescues. You can use bonding blankets (pieces of fleece or fleece strips) in the same sort of way. Tuck a few blankets inside your shirt for several days then put those blankets into your gliders pouch. This will help them adjust to your scent. On the same note, you an tuck a few blankets into your gliders pouch for a few days and when you are ready to handle them, pull out a blanket and use it to make the glider feel more comfortable. 

·         Do not chase your glider around the cage trying to catch it.

That is just terrifying to such a small critter! If you are having problems getting your glider to come out of the cage, wait for the soggy to climb into its cage pouch and then just remove the pouch with the glider inside. When in doubt, use bribes. Gliders absolutely love treats. There is no shame in coaxing a glider over to you with a meal worm or yogurt treat. The best technique for catching a glider on the run if they won’t come to you or let you scoops them up is to drop a piece of fleece over them and scoop them up in the blanket.

"L" Technique

Take your hand and place it palm down in front of you with all fingers touching. Now, stick your thumb out to the side to make an 'L' shape. See it? Okay, now gently place the webbed part of your hand towards your glider's chest and then downward and back towards the rear feet. This motion should encourage your glider to "step up" onto the back of your hand.

·         Remember, it takes PATIENCE.

This is key to bonding with your glider. I have bonded with gliders as quick as one week and it has also taken me up to one year to bond with a glider. I have been on both ends. Each glider is different, so take your time and move slowly. It's worth the wait! Don't get frustrated if your new little friend doesn't reciprocate love from the very first day. Building a relationship takes time. 

·         Carry your glider with you.

Toss on a pouch and let your glider nap in there while you do dishes and laundry or sit online checking out websites! All of that time is great bonding time. My gliders love to lay in their pouch on my chest while I read out loud. This lets them get used to my voice and scent all at once. For you ladies out there, try bra-training your glider. I love carrying a glider or two right down my shirt. I put in one of their tiny blankets (piece of fleece will do fine) and then let them climb in. It's usually a simple process that they take to quickly. I have several bra babies. I think they enjoy the snugness and hearing a heartbeat. 

·         Try to understand your glider.

So you have a bitter. For whatever reason, your glider bites you. Maybe this is an adult rescue or re-homed glider. Maybe this in unsociable joy. Maybe this glider is just terrified. All you know is that your fingers are sore and your heart is broken. There is hope. Try to understand your glider. Experience comes into play here, but any owner can do it. If you can understand why your glider is doing what it is doing, you have a much better chance of changing the behavior. Try to figure out if the aggressive behavior is limited to when the glider is in the pouch or cage. Does the biting all come with crabbing or does this glider just bite to bite? All of these matter. Most biting stems from dominance, fear, aggression, and illness. You are actually not very likely to have an aggressive glider on your hands. Odds are that the glider is afraid or trying to establish dominance by pushing boundaries. 

"Psssst!" Technique - When I have a nippy glider, I have a way of correcting them that speaks their language. I make a sharp "Psssst!" sound at them. It's the same sound another glider would make to yell at a glider for getting too rough. You have to repeat the process...a lot. But it has been a reliable method for me for a long time. 

"Blowing" Technique

·        Gliders need playtime too.

How would you like it if you could NEVER leave your house? No fun, huh? It isn't fun for your suggie either. It doesn't matter how cool that cage is or how big it is. Sugar gliders need playtime. It's crucial to their health and well-being. You are going to have to let them out for at least one hour every single day. I suggest no less than 3-5 hours out of cage time with at least one hour being actual playtime or tent-time. Tent time is the time I spend in a tent with my gliders. It's a wonderful thing to have at home! They are cheap (less than $20) and you and glider can sit inside of it while they play. They have no choice but to use you as a toy/tree! It's great for bonding!

How to care sugar glider?

Sugar Gliders are tiny marsupials that are native to New Guinea and Australia that live in colonies. Sugar Gliders use their gliding membrane that extends from their front wrist to their rear ankles to move from place to place. Full grown gliders are usually 5 inches in body length with a 6 inch furry tail. They weigh 4 to 5 ounces.

Sugar Gliders are very social animals and are adverse to solitary confinement. Their normal color is steel gray to brownish with a black stripe down the back, but selective breeding in captivity has brought out other color variations, including albinos. In captivity, they can live as long as 15 years, although 8 to 12 years is more usual. The ability to glide is one of the most amazing features of sugar gliders. 

Sugar gliders are nocturnal, they active at night, sleep during day time. Sugar gliders are naturally social animals and need to have a lot of contact with their owner in order to be socially fulfilled. Although they are nocturnal, there is still plenty of time to spend with your glider during the day. They have very large (relative to their size) eyes, which help them see at night. They also have large ears, an obvious benefit to an animal who is both preyed-upon and a predator. Those big ears allow them to hear even the smallest sound. Because they are marsupials, they like to be snuggled up in a pouch during the daytime while they sleep.

Housing 

The bigger, the better. In the wild, sugar gliders nest in holes of trees in colonies of 7 to 15 members and have been observed gliding as far as 300 feet! The width of the cage is important, the more your glider will be able to "fly". Of course, the larger the cage is, the more exercise your glider will be able to get. A cage that is no smaller that 4 feet tall by 3 feet wide are highly recommended.

Starter Kit without Cage ( RM 88.71 )

Starter Kits with Sturdy Cage ( RM 199.53 )

Example for the complete cage :

Since sugar gliders cannot be litter trained, it is important to get a cage that has a pull-out tray for easy cleaning. Bedding material such as corn cob litter can be place in your pull-out tray or other wood pelleted bedding material. Since sugar gliders are nocturnal, be sure that the cage is not in an area with a lot of noise or human traffic. Be sure to put in several sized bird perches branches or jumping ledge for chinchilla for lots of exercise. Plastic bird perches work well because they are easily washed and do not hold urine smells.

Corn cob litter

Wood Pelleted

Plastic bird perches 

It is also important that the cage is in an area where there is a noticeable light difference between night and day; otherwise, your glider will become confused about when to be awake or asleep. The cage should be kept out of direct sunlight. In the wild, sugar gliders gather in hold in the trees line with leaves for sleeping. Since sugar glider’s cage will need to be cleaned regularly, a plastic house lined with washable fleece is a good choice. Sugar gliders are most comfortable when the temperature is between 23 and 27 degrees Celsius. Much variation from that range can be detrimental to their health. A nesting or sleeping pouch will provide your sugar glider with a place to curl up and go to sleep during the day and also a place where it can hide and feel safe. In the wild, sugar gliders nest high up in trees, place the nesting pouch fairly high up in the cage. 

Sugar gliders will use their scent glands to make their pouches smell like them, so it is a good idea to have several pouches available in order to rotate them for cleaning; otherwise, the pouches can become quite smelly.